All plans

Every plan on this page is generated for your hen count at checkout, not sold as a single fixed-size PDF. Pick the build that matches how you keep your flock.

4-Hen Starter Coop: free, fixed at 4 hens, a small ground coop with an outside-access nest box.

Raised Coop Plan: $29, 2 to 8 hens, elevated coop with an outdoor-access nest box and roost.

A-Frame Chicken Tractor Plan: $29, 2 to 6 hens, a movable A-frame with attached run, no fixed foundation.

Walk-In Coop Plan, 6x8 ft: $29, 4 to 15 hens, a walk-in coop for a taller flock or a keeper who wants to stand up inside.

Walk-In Coop Plan, 8x8 ft: $29, 6 to 20 hens, the larger walk-in footprint.

Attached Run Add-On Plan: $19, 2 to 20 hens, a hardware-cloth run framed to attach to an existing coop.

Raised Coop + Run Bundle: $59, 2 to 8 hens, the raised coop and a matching run in one cut list.

Matching a plan to your site

Ground space is tight: the raised coop puts run area under the coop itself
You want to stand up inside: the 6x8 or 8x8 walk-in, depending on flock size
You have grass to spare: the A-frame tractor moves the flock onto fresh ground
You already have a coop: the run add-on frames against an existing wall
You are starting out: the free 4-hen starter coop shows the format at no cost

What every plan contains

A start-here page, dimensioned views, a cut list with finished lengths packed onto stock lumber, a panel layout on standard 4x8 sheets, a hardware and hardware cloth list, and an assembly order. Nothing has to be scaled off a drawing, and any board longer than stock is spliced in the plan at a location the plan names.

Size for the flock you will have

Flocks grow. The single most useful thing you can do before choosing is decide the maximum number of birds you would ever keep on this site, then pick the plan whose declared range covers it. Building for today's four hens and adding three next spring means rebuilding the roost, the nest boxes and the ventilation at once.

Procedure before you choose and build

Start with a tape measure, four stakes, string, and a notebook. Mark the outside footprint you expect to use, then walk around it with a feed bucket and a wheelbarrow. Leave at least 30 in clear on the side where doors, nest access, or cleanout panels will open. If you cannot carry a full bucket through that path without turning sideways, the service space is too tight.

Check drainage before you commit to a location. After a normal rain, the chosen spot should be firm underfoot within 24 hours. If water stands longer than that, move the coop uphill or plan a raised gravel pad. A practical pad is 4 in to 6 in of compacted crushed stone, extending 12 in past the wall line on each side. Do not set untreated framing directly on soil.

Confirm sun and wind exposure at the time you normally close the birds in. In hot climates, afternoon shade matters more than morning sun. In cold or windy sites, place the most solid wall toward the prevailing winter wind and keep the pop door away from the direction where drifting rain normally hits.

Before ordering lumber, read the whole plan once and mark every repeated board length with a colored pencil. Then sort the cut list into long stock, short stock, sheet goods, wire, roofing, and fasteners. This takes about 20 to 30 minutes and usually prevents the common mistake of cutting short parts from the wrong full-length board.

Equipment, working space, and figures to check

A typical home build does not need cabinet-shop equipment, but it does need accurate layout. Use a circular saw or miter saw, drill and driver, tape measure, speed square, clamps, level, staple gun for hardware cloth, tin snips, and eye and hand protection. A second person is useful when lifting wall frames, roof panels, or sheet goods larger than 4 ft by 4 ft.

Set up two sawhorses and keep an 8 ft straight board nearby as a temporary work edge. For sheet cutting, support the panel on foam board or scrap strips so the offcut cannot drop and tear the face. Measure diagonals on any rectangular frame before fastening sheathing. If the two diagonals differ by more than 1/4 in on a small panel or 3/8 in on a wall, rack the frame square before driving the remaining fasteners.

Item to check	Practical figure	Why it matters
Service aisle beside access points	30 in minimum	Allows cleaning tools and feed buckets to pass without scraping hardware cloth.
Gravel pad overhang	12 in beyond wall line	Reduces splashback and keeps edges from sitting in mud.
Hardware cloth overlap at seams	At least 2 in	Gives enough edge distance for staples or screws with washers.
Frame diagonal tolerance	1/4 in to 3/8 in	Keeps doors, panels, and roof edges from fighting the layout.
Temporary bracing time	Leave in place until roof or sheathing is fixed	Prevents a square frame from moving while you work.

Frequent mistakes and recovery steps

The most common mistake is building the floor or wall frame slightly out of square, then trying to force every later part to fit. Stop as soon as the error appears. Loosen only the fasteners needed to move the frame, pull the long diagonal shorter with a clamp or ratchet strap, then refasten after both diagonals match within tolerance.

Another common mistake is cutting every board before any assembly starts. This feels efficient, but it removes your chance to compensate for small real-world variation in lumber thickness, sheet edges, or site level. Cut the repeated parts first, then keep trim pieces, blocking, and door parts until their surrounding frames are confirmed.

If a door binds, do not plane or saw the door first. Check the opening for square, check hinge screws, and confirm the coop is not twisted by uneven support. A 1/8 in shim under one corner can change a door gap enough to show that the base, not the door, is the problem.

If hardware cloth wrinkles, remove a short section and restart from a fixed corner. Pull across the width, not only along the length. Fasten every 3 in to 4 in around openings and corners. Where predators can pry, use screws with washers instead of relying only on staples.

Special cases when selecting from the plan page

For a sloped yard, measure the fall over the full footprint before choosing the location. A drop of 2 in across 8 ft is easy to correct with gravel and blocking. A drop of 6 in or more usually needs a stepped base, a different location, or a design that does not depend on a perfectly flat run area.

For heavy snow, think about access first. Leave a shovel path from the house to the coop and avoid placing doors where roof snow will slide or be shoveled into the opening. For hot climates, prioritize shade, cross ventilation, and water access over the shortest walking distance.

For mixed-age flocks, plan temporary separation before the new birds arrive. A simple divider panel can be framed from scrap and hardware cloth, but it still needs its own feeder and waterer space. If you expect to add birds later, choose from the plan list using the highest flock number you would actually keep, not the number in the brooder today.

If local rules limit structure height, setbacks, or animal enclosures, check them before buying materials. A plan can be adjusted during layout far more easily than after framing. For general ordering and file questions, use the FAQ before you cut lumber.