Raised Coop Plan

Floor framing plan of the coop seen from above: rim joists and floor joists at 16 in on center over 4 ft by 2 ft, nest box footprint marked on the back wall. — The floor frame exactly as the generator draws it for 4 hens: 6 parts in 2x4 over 4 ft by 2 ft, 8 sq ft of floor, with the 2 nest boxes hanging off the back wall. The rest of the plan follows the same numbers: 44 named parts in 2x2, 2x4 and 4x4, 12 boards of stock lumber, 2 sheets of T1-11, 24 in of roost and 23 sq in of ventilation, over 14 build steps.

The Raised Coop is an elevated coop on a stud-framed base, sized for 2 to 8 hens with an outside-access nest box so you never have to step inside to collect eggs, and a roost bar scaled to your hen count.

Enter your hen count and climate at checkout. The engine scales the floor footprint, roost length, nest box count and ventilation opening to that input, then packs the resulting lumber list onto 8, 10 and 12 ft stock and the sheathing onto 4x8 ft sheets before generating your PDF set.

Every download includes a start-here page with dimensioned front, side and top views, a cut list, a panel layout, a generated assembly order, a bill of materials in JSON, and a floor plan SVG.

Need an attached run too? The Raised Coop + Run Bundle combines this plan with the Run Add-On in one cut list for less than buying both separately. Space and roost figures follow Penn State Extension poultry housing guidance; see the Coop Size Planner to preview them before buying.

Why raise a coop off the ground

The floor stays dry, and the framing that touches the ground is limited to the posts
The space underneath becomes shaded run area, which costs nothing in footprint
Rodents have nowhere enclosed to nest against the floor
Cleaning happens at waist height rather than on your knees

The outside-access nest box

A nest box that opens from outside means egg collection never involves opening the main door, which matters most in winter and in rain. It also keeps the pop door closed while you collect, so nobody escapes. The lid needs a slope to shed water and a latch that a raccoon cannot work: the plan draws both.

Predator proofing is not optional

The most common loss is not a fox through a wall, it is a raccoon through a latch or a weasel through chicken wire. Three details do most of the work: half inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire on every opening, two step latches that a paw cannot work, and a buried or aproned skirt of hardware cloth extending outward at ground level so nothing digs under the edge. The plans call for hardware cloth throughout for exactly this reason.

What scales with your hen count

Floor footprint, roost length, nest box count and ventilation opening all follow the hen count and breed size you enter at checkout, within the declared 2 to 8 hen range. If your flock is likely to grow, size for the flock you expect rather than the flock you have: adding a bird to a coop sized exactly for the current count is the most common reason people rebuild within two years.

Build order that keeps the frame square

Start by choosing a level work area at least 3 ft larger than the coop on every side. Mark the post positions from the PDF dimensions, then check the diagonals before digging. If the two diagonal measurements differ by more than 1/4 in, move the layout strings until they match. A small error at the posts becomes a large error when the wall panels and roof are installed.

Set the support posts first, then trim them to a common height after they are fixed. Do not rely on hole depth to set final height. Use a water level, laser level or long level on a straight board. For a raised coop, a practical underside clearance is 18 to 30 in. Less than 18 in is hard to rake, and more than 30 in usually needs longer ramps and extra bracing.

Build the floor frame on sawhorses if possible, then set it on the posts and fasten it only after the top is flat and square. Install the floor sheathing next, because it locks the frame. Wall panels are easier to assemble flat on the floor deck. Tack each wall with two fasteners at first, plumb it, brace it, then complete the fastening. Fit the roof framing before siding trim, because roof corrections are harder after the outside skin is closed.

Install doors, nest access, vents and hardware cloth before birds arrive, not as later upgrades. A flock can move in after the interior is dry, sharp wire ends are folded or covered, all latches are working, and bedding has been added. If you are comparing coop sizes before ordering another plan, use the planner index at coop plans and keep the same hen count through the full layout.

Tools, materials handling and working dimensions

A raised coop can be built with ordinary carpentry tools, but accuracy matters more than tool count. Use a tape measure, speed square, circular saw or miter saw, drill and driver, clamps, level, staple gun rated for fencing staples, tin snips for hardware cloth, eye protection and gloves. Two clamps at each panel corner save time because they hold studs flush while you drive screws.

Item to check	Useful figure	Why it matters
Post layout diagonal tolerance	Within 1/4 in	Keeps walls and roof from twisting
Underside clearance	18 to 30 in	Allows cleaning under the coop without making the ramp too steep
Ramp slope	About 30 to 40 degrees	Steeper ramps need closer cleats and are harder for heavy breeds
Ramp cleat spacing	4 to 6 in on center	Gives footing in wet weather
Door service clearance	At least 24 in in front	Lets you open, scrape and carry bedding without working sideways
Hardware cloth overlap at seams	At least 2 in	Prevents a pulled seam from becoming an opening

Sort lumber before cutting. Use the straightest boards for door frames, wall plates and roof edges. Boards with a slight crown can be used for blocking or short studs. Mark every cut piece with its plan label as soon as it is cut. For one person, a typical order is cutting and labeling in 2 to 3 hours, floor and posts in half a day, walls in half a day, roof and siding in one day, then wire, doors and latches in another day.

Frequent mistakes and practical recovery

The base is not square: loosen the floor fasteners before the sheathing is installed, pull the long diagonal shorter with a ratchet strap, then refasten. If sheathing is already on, trim small siding differences at the corners rather than forcing the roof out of plane.
A post is too low: do not stack loose scraps under the frame. Add a full bearing shim or replace the post section so the load bears across the full width.
The door rubs after rain: check for swelling and sag separately. Plane or sand only the rubbing edge if the frame is still square. If the hinge side has dropped, add a diagonal brace or reset the hinge screws into solid framing.
Hardware cloth has sharp edges: fold the cut edge back on itself, cover it with a batten, or rotate the panel so the factory edge is at bird height. Gloves are not optional when handling cut mesh.
The ramp is too steep: lengthen the ramp or add an intermediate landing. Extra cleats help grip, but they do not fix a ramp that is too short for the height.
Water runs toward the nest lid or access door: add a drip edge, adjust the lid slope, and keep hinges above the water path. Sealant alone is not a reliable fix where water is directed into a joint.

Most recovery work is easiest before trim is installed. Stop after the frame is standing and test every moving part. Open the nest lid, main door and pop door fully. If any part needs more than light hand pressure, correct it before birds and bedding are inside.

Special cases to plan before cutting

Cold climates need ventilation that removes moisture without blowing directly on roosting birds. Keep bedding dry by clearing snow away from the base and by leaving a path for air under the coop. In hot climates, roof shade and high ventilation are more useful than extra wall thickness. Face large service doors away from the strongest summer sun when the site allows it.

For heavy breeds, keep the roost lower and the ramp less steep. For bantams, small ramp cleats still matter because wet wood is slippery. For a very windy site, add temporary bracing during construction and keep wall panels supported until the roof is tied in. If the coop will sit on slope, step the posts to level the floor rather than following the ground. The birds need a level interior, and the doors need square frames.

If local rules limit height, measure from the highest finished grade beside the coop, not from the low side only. If you are unsure about terms used in the generated PDF, check the FAQ before cutting the first board.